Discovering the Heart of the Black Forest Tour

The Rhine flows slowly, big broad corners that sweep alongside vineyards and forested valleys. It imbues you not to rush, the gentle current encouraging everyone to slow the pace and absorb the gentle charms. Casting shadows on the hillside, see the remains of ancient castles, turrets decaying yet redolent with power. The strange rock of Lorelei rises from one bank, a steep slab of granite appearing like a phantom in the river. It's a rock of legend, one that's given rise to tales about cave-dwelling dwarfs and mermaids that appeared on Mondays throughout history. Somehow it feels believable here, the scenic stretch of river etching charm into every angle.

Take a private boat cruise along the Rhine, stopping first at a vineyard that hangs over the river. Open your senses to the region's culinary surprises, wines that are light on the palate but bold in flavor. Further along is the famous city of winegrowers, Rüdesheim, with its medieval collection of cobblestone streets. Many of the half-timbered townhouses are wine taverns, the six-century-old havens where growers would come and sell their produce. You'll have a few hours in this cute town, a chance to explore at leisure and dine on a terrace that elegantly overlooks the river. Return towards Frankfurt by the river, cruising back through the backcountry and continuing the clear impressions of this luxury tour.

Heidelberg seems to grow out of the Black Forest, the trees rising above its symmetrical rows of red slate roofs. The old town tumbles along the slopes, descending to the River Neckar and its bridges of broad stone arches. Travel here from Frankfurt and wander along the historic streets, rising towards Heidelberg Castle, an icon that dominates the town from afar. This fabulous Renaissance structure is one of Germany's most known attractions, a castle left in a redolent state of ruin. Parts of it date to the 13th century, others to the 17th, and the romantic turrets from the 18th. It's never been that successful as a fortress, and the historical tale includes regular attack and occupation, but it's a fabulous showcase of excess, more a royal palace than a place to defend.

From Heidelberg, the road winds to Baden-Baden, the revered spa escape for Europe's nobility. Alongside royalty, the richest in European society would travel here in the summer, savoring the atmosphere of thermal baths and beautiful spas. Walking trails weave through the forests that surround the town, taking you onto low peaks and across the valley of the lower Alps. Like most of the overnight stops on this luxury tour, the walking routes start from just outside the hotel. A salubrious spa is the centerpiece of your accommodation, a place for rejuvenating in the thermals and swimming amidst the undulating landscape. Upon arriving in Baden-Baden, the day is at your leisure.

The Black Forest roads contradict any images of a German autobahn. They meander slowly, ascending and descending as they connect the spine of peaks that dominates the landscape. Spectacular views come at regular intervals, with the Rhine Valley opening below and the Vosges Mountains glistening in the background. Follow the trail past Mummelsee Lake, where there is the opportunity to walk at leisure in this quaint rural setting. Then, move on to the thatched roof buildings and geranium windows of Vogtsbauernhöfe, a preserved reminder of traditional life in the Black Forest.

The destination is Freiburg, a pretty little town with a classic combination of winding streets and a towering central cathedral. Head beneath the old city gates and spend a couple of hours exploring at leisure, then retire to your spa hotel on the edge of the town, beneath the glowing tones of the forest. The capital city of the Black Forest region, Freiburg does much to imbue a sense of tranquility. Rivers gush through the evergreens; traditional taverns entice you with menus of roasted pork, and church bells mingle with the tweets of endemic birds.

Wake to a quiet morning, the forest bathed in a layer of mist that rolls, then disappears like a magic carpet.  Take one of the walking trails, winding beneath the pine to easy lookout points, or take a dip in the spa or another stroll into Freiburg's center, where the cathedral tower offers supreme panoramas. Freiburg is Germany's sunniest town, and there is always a glow across the landscape. In the afternoon, drive into the heartbeat of the Black Forest as tiny villages are hidden, delighting in their old-world authenticity.

Your romantic hotel is set in the forest scenery, the wooden balconies opening out onto generous vistas. Take a walk down to Ravenna Gorge and then discover the Black Forest's oldest chapel, two attractions situated within a few minutes of your luxury hotel. In the evening, head out to a traditional wooden hut – a pudelstein – in the forest. Far from any roads, back out into a wonderful sunset view. Dinner is served here, a special meal to be cherished amongst bucolic surroundings.

There's something about a cuckoo clock that has people envisaging Switzerland or a remote alpine hut, but they originate from the Black Forest, although the historical tales are unclear about who invented them first. Titisee has the cuckoo clock visitor's center and a fabulous array of design, all handcrafted from wood and filling the air with their distinctive chimes. They're symbolic of the region, a bizarre tradition that's just as important now as it was in the 18th century. Cheese is another authentic slice of local life, and you'll find it made on farms across the region. In Titisee, stop at a small farm to explore the flavors, the majority of them on the rich and creamy end of the scale.

Germany is all about surprise, even when it comes to the food. Forget frankfurters and bratwurst as the culinary menu is far more sophisticated, especially in the Black Forest town of Baiersbronn. Aromatic brilliance spills from the town's kitchens; surreal menus blend mosaics of fresh produce, and the pursuit of perfectionism is found in the town's restaurants. Tiny Baiersbronn, population 15,000, is home to eight Michelin stars. It's worth the overnight stop just for the food, but there are also the captivating farmhouses, luxuriant hotel spa, and rolling hiking trails. For tonight, you've got a table where the menu blends sublime innovation with a love for the aesthetics. The dining room has just eight tables, and the attention to detail is exquisite, complimented by a wonderful selection of wine.

Travel east to Stuttgart, a city that's home to Mercedes and Porsche yet holds fast to its 10th-century history and traditions. Meander through the streets to find chic art galleries, boutique stores, castle relics, and the enthralling atmosphere of the city square. A guided tour of the city helps unveil the diversity, from the odes to history to the clean lines of the car factories, where the inspiring scale of production is matched by attention to detail.

A final culinary treat completes your itinerary with a signature tasting menu showcasing class and style; each dish served beneath decadent interiors that every diner wants to photograph. Taste your way through five courses, each an ode to local organic produce and an example of how nuanced German cuisine can be. Stuttgart has a royal history,and this famous restaurant does much to befit the regal past.

Stuttgart's international airport offers a convenient departure point for Germany, and you will be transferred to the airport for your flight.