Adriatic to the Alps: Gourmet Tour of Croatia, Slovenia & Italy

The morning light casts a gleam over the tremendous greenery that surrounds the plateaued village. The succulent perfume of breakfast seems to drift through the meandering narrow streets. In the late morning, you will have a visit to the hilltop village of Grožnjan, where artists, musicians, and artisans have added to the charming stature. In the summer months, the streets transform into an artistic enclave, filled with music academies, dance performances, and more all spreading throughout the village’s labyrinthine streets. Stroll through the historic streets. Your steps on the cobblestone streets echo along the walls bouncing off eclectic galleries. The views are splendid, giving a grander display of the outstretched valley and far-reaching hills.

With the day at your whim to leisure away along the streets of medieval fantasy, there is no better time to luxuriate amongst the delicate and diverse flavors of the Istria countryside. Kozlović is a vintner that produces exquisite wine with subtle and supple flavors remarking on the fabulous Croatian terrain. The vineyard, like the landscape itself, blossoms along the horizon springing fresh greenery and a welcomed earthiness to the air. Sip on their famed Malvasia varietal, known for its lemon coloration and nose of ripe fruit like peaches and nectarine, followed by a creamy palate of grapefruit flavors that provides you with a lovely sampling of the best of Istrian wine-making. The owner, Luciano Visintin, is filled with the intense passion and friendliness that has developed from family history and is deeply rooted in the personality of the wines and olive oils they produce. Dinner at Damir and Ornella’s offers fresh fish caught that day, prepared for you at the table to order in what they have named “Mediterranean Sashimi.”  The more you the time you spend in Croatia the more you realize that much of its luster comes in remarkable edible form.

Say good morning and goodbye to the Croatian countryside after a light café breakfast. Soon you will find yourself over the Slovenian border at Škocjan Caves. The breathtaking system of limestone caves expands to almost four-miles of underground caverns and sinks to over 600 feet at its deepest point. There is an eerie and exhilarating spaciousness that weaves around the karsts. Rushing water echoes through the vast openness. Standing on the main bridge you can look down into the flowing water and see the incredible depths at which the cave drops. The limestone mixes with the moisture to add an earthy scent to the cavernous atmosphere. Light fixtures help illuminate the walkway and give an emerald glow to the Reka River that rushes through the system.

Stop for lunch at the 11th century Dornberk Castle before arriving in the stunning town of Kobarid, situated at the foothills of Soca Valley which climb up to Mount Krn. The vibrant greenery that sweeps across the valley and over the mountains is almost unimaginable. The only things more remarkable than the rich valley and mountainside are the towering peaks above them, whether covered in snow or showing off their limestone grandeur. The town itself resembles a quaint alpine village, where the quiet draw of the streets is surrounded by the splendor of its surroundings. Whether a tranquil evening in your comfortable hotel or strolling along the Gastronomic Circle filled with restaurants offering tasty treats from recipes that have been passed down for generations, you will quickly find the majesty of Kobarid.

There is a wonder in the Julian Alps that surround the Soca Valley. Placid lakes reflect their surroundings, from quintessential churches to endless blue sky. Today you will settle into the fantastic accommodation of Hiša Franko. Ernest Hemingway stayed in the charming site at the fringes of World War I, and the rumor states it is the location where he wrote, A Farewell to Arms. The alpine scenery is bejeweled with hot springs and castles, luxuries and comforts, all set within the undulating mountain peaks that give grace and tone to your time in Slovenia. Hiša Franko’s award-winning chef, Ana Roš, will offer you a tremendous tour of her cheese storehouse located in the lower-levels of the hotel, along with her herb and vegetable garden in the back. The cheese cellar looks more like an artesian showroom, where indigenous cheeses like Tolminc and Voski are aged, each variety paired with local honey and marmalade. The scenery is delectable, the food is desirous, and together they are perfection.

Today you will venture through the town of Kaborid to the Kobariški Museum, which displays memoriam of the Soča River and the World War I front that separated Italy from the Austro-Hungarian Empire. The exterior is unassuming, consistent with the architecture and tranquility of the entire town; however, once inside the museum you can see the remarkable collection that showcases the past, from the faces and artifacts of those who fought hardily during the Great War that changed the modern landscape and geography of the area, to a documentary detailing particular instances, the strife, and the power of World War I which continues to inform and shape the region.

In the midday you cross into the Italian city of Cividale del Friuli. You will be met by a local guide who will take you through the ancient city that was founded by Julius Caesar in 53 BC. Cross Il Ponte del Diavolo, the Bridge of the Devil. A symbol of the city, the stone arch contains a devil-related myth that has stretched over the bridge since the 15th century; the bridge was rebuilt after World War I. The history is alive along the streets and architecture. You can see saints around the vista of the Longobardo Temple, jutting out from the walls in clean and precise poses, blessing and watching those beneath them. As the evening settles in you will arrive in Udine at the delectable restaurant of Agli Amici, where a traditional eight-course dinner awaits you.

Rise and shine with the morning light spotlighting the exceptional landscapes that never lessen in majesty. Today you will venture to the premier wine-growing region of Goriška Brda, where you will find yourself at Hotel Gredič, a recently renovated medieval castle. The historic building is flush with modern luxuries, all situated within view of the energetic vineyard. Upon touring the castle you will come to the focal point of the cellar, filled with regional micro-wines inaccessible to areas outside of Slovenia and nearby regions. Part wine cellar, part lounge, a comfortable environment is a perfect setting to taste the diverse and sensitive flavors from around the valley. A light lunch will have you delighting in the fare conjured by their Italian chef Avenanti Cristian, who has created inspired dishes such as “drunk and grilled” octopus, and goat cheese stuffed hand-made tortellini.

In the late afternoon, you will cross the Italian border to experience the desirable flavors of the Zoff Family Dairy Farm. Multiple award-winners for their cheeses and yogurt, you will indulge in samples that give you just a peek into their unique and decadent fare. Indulge in a few samples and take a peek into their fantastic milk-making techniques. A glass of wine is always paired well with the luscious cheeses before you settle for dinner at Al Giardino in the town of Cormons. A five-course meal is the only way to wind down a gastronomically fabulous day, where no food-adventure could compare.

You will find charm and elegance in the Slovenian capital of Ljubljana. The streets combine a medieval city with a village allure, a place that will mesmerize you just by existing. You have seen villages and valleys, Alps and rivers, yet this capital is unlike any other, utterly delightful. The city combines Habsburg architectural majesty with boutique stores and artisan crafts, all somewhat hidden beneath the 15th-century castle perched above the winding, narrow streets. Stand atop the viewing tower to see the wondrous vista that reaches the horizon, filled with plush trees and red rooftops. There is even a fantastic display of what the castle once was, transitioning to how the castle is perceived now on a virtual walkthrough of its history. Let yourself delight in the pleasurable tranquility of the city around the Ljubljanica River, where café culture resides next to the graceful architecture and serene water.  In the evening you will find yourself in the Vipava Valley, known for its stellar wines and culminating in a dinner you will never forget.  Soon you will dine on the exceptional creations prepared by the chefs of Pri Lojzetu at the Zemono estate. A 7-course meal accompanied by distinct and exquisite local wines will captivate you, bringing your final evening in Slovenia to a gorgeous end.

Once more the sunlight rises over Slovenia, only today you find an unfamiliar finality to the sunrise, the last time you will watch the light glisten off of this particular greenery; the last time the scent of vineyards and cherry trees will drift in this particular breeze. After breakfast, you will venture back to Trieste, Italy where and board your flight bound for home. You have tasted your way along the Adriatic, where the exceptional flavors have blossomed with time and culture. Just because you have begun your journey home doesn’t mean that the tastes of the region have to end. There will always be more wines to sample, more cheese to eat, more incredible coursed meals to find, and when you find yourself missing the landscape, the food, and the people that much, you will always be welcomed back.

Consider extending this 11-day trip. Browse the Croatia reviews for additional ideas and to read traveler reviews.